Zurich-style veal (Zürcher Geschnetzeltes)
Ingredients
Method
- Cut the veal into thin strips 5 mm thick and 4 to 5 cm long, against the grain. Dust them with flour and toss. Slice the mushrooms and finely chop the shallots.
- Heat the oil and half the butter in a large frying pan over very high heat. Sear the veal in two batches for just 1 to 2 minutes, without stirring at first: it should brown on the outside and stay pink inside. Set aside on a plate with its juices.
- In the same pan, over medium heat, melt the rest of the butter. Add the shallots and cook for 2 minutes, then add the mushrooms and brown them for 5 minutes.
- Pour in the white wine and scrape up the browned bits from the bottom of the pan with a spatula. Reduce by half, then add the veal stock and cream. Simmer gently for 4 to 5 minutes until thickened.
- Season with salt and white pepper, add the nutmeg and lemon juice. Return the veal and its juices to the sauce and warm through for 1 minute, without boiling.
- Sprinkle with parsley and serve immediately, with golden rösti.
Notes
Tender, creamy and ready in thirty-five minutes: Zurich-style veal is one of Switzerland’s most famous dishes. Thin strips of veal seared over high heat, button mushrooms, a splash of white wine and a smooth cream sauce: all the comfort of Swiss cooking on one plate. Served with golden rösti, this creamy veal and mushroom dish wins everyone over. Here is our Zurich-style veal recipe, its history and all the secrets to getting it right.
Zürcher Geschnetzeltes, a speciality of Zurich
In German-speaking Switzerland it is called Zürcher Geschnetzeltes, literally “Zurich sliced meat”. The word geschnetzelt comes from the verb schnetzeln, meaning to cut into thin strips. It is Zurich’s signature dish, served in the big brasseries of the old town as well as in country inns, almost always with rösti.
The recipe appears in Swiss cookbooks in the mid-20th century, but it draws on a long regional tradition of thinly sliced, pan-fried meat. Today it is a Swiss veal recipe known throughout the country, just like fondue or Bircher muesli, the other great Zurich speciality.
Kidneys, the original touch
In its older version, Zurich-style veal contained veal kidneys as well as the meat. This version with kidneys can still be found on the menu of a few traditional restaurants. If you like offal, add 150 g of trimmed veal kidneys cut into thin slices: sear them separately for 1 minute over very high heat and mix them with the meat at the end. Otherwise, the veal-only version, the most common today, is perfect.
The golden rules of traditional Zurich-style veal
A traditional Geschnetzeltes is based on a few simple principles that every Zurich cook follows:
- Veal and nothing else: topside, silverside or rump, tender and lean cuts. Pork or chicken make a good dish, but a different one.
- Thin, even strips, cut against the grain so they cook quickly and stay tender.
- Lightning-fast cooking over high heat, in small batches, to sear rather than boil.
- A real cream sauce, thickened by reduction rather than lots of flour.
- Button mushrooms, found in almost every modern version.
Easy Zurich-style veal: step by step
This easy sliced veal is made in four stages, ideal for a weeknight. First, sear the veal over very high heat and set it aside. In the same pan, brown the shallots and mushrooms. Then deglaze with white wine and add the veal stock and cream to make the sauce. Finally, return the meat to the sauce just long enough to warm it through. Everything is ready in 35 minutes, including preparation.
Cooking the meat: sear without drying out
This is the step that makes all the difference. The veal strips must be cooked very quickly: 1 to 2 minutes over high heat, no more. If you put all the meat in the pan at once, it cools down, releases its water and boils instead of browning: it turns grey and tough. So cook it in two or three batches, in a very hot pan, without stirring for the first 30 seconds. The light dusting of flour helps the meat brown and thickens the sauce. Set the veal aside while still pink: it will finish cooking in the sauce.
The sauce for Zurich-style veal
The sauce is the soul of Zurich-style veal. It is built in the pan where the meat was cooked, from the caramelised juices on the bottom. The shallots and mushrooms brown gently, then the white wine lifts the browned bits, the cream adds richness and the lemon brings freshness. A good sauce coats the back of a spoon but is not thick: it should run slowly off the spoon.
Deglazing with white wine
Zurich-style veal with white wine traditionally uses a dry Swiss white, such as a Fendant from Valais or a Chasselas from Vaud, fresh and not very aromatic. A dry Muscadet or Pinot Grigio also works very well. Reduce it by half before adding the cream: the alcohol evaporates, leaving only the acidity and flavour, which balance the richness of the sauce. For an alcohol-free version, replace the wine with stock and an extra spoonful of lemon juice.
Veal in cream sauce: which cream?
This veal in cream sauce recipe is best made with double cream or whipping cream (at least 30% fat), which reduces well without splitting. French crème fraîche also works and gives a slightly tangier sauce. Avoid light creams, which split when cooked. The cream sauce makes this a real comfort dish, perfect for autumn and winter evenings.
Spices for Zurich-style veal
The spices stay subtle so as not to mask the delicate flavour of the meat. White pepper is the traditional choice: it adds flavour without leaving black specks in the pale sauce. Find out how it differs from black pepper in our article on pepper, its varieties and health benefits. A pinch of freshly grated nutmeg, as in a béchamel, brings out the sweetness of the cream: learn how to use it in the right amount with our guide to nutmeg. Finally, a squeeze of lemon juice and fresh parsley add the finishing touch. Some cooks also add a pinch of sweet paprika for colour.
Veal with mushrooms: which mushrooms to choose?
Veal with mushrooms is classically made with button mushrooms, white or chestnut. Chestnut mushrooms have a stronger flavour and release less water. For a special occasion, mix them with porcini, chanterelles or morels. Always brown them over fairly high heat, without salting at first: salt draws out their water and they then steam instead of browning.
What to serve with Zurich-style veal?
Ask a Zurich native what to serve with sliced veal and the answer is immediate: rösti. This grated potato cake, crisp on the outside and soft inside, soaks up the cream sauce perfectly. Make it with waxy potatoes boiled the day before and cooled, coarsely grated, then fried in butter on both sides until golden. For a more colourful variation, try our sweet potato rösti with cumin.
Other sides work very well too: fresh pasta such as tagliatelle, white rice or homemade mashed potatoes. For vegetables, green beans or a sharply dressed green salad balance the richness of the dish.
Zurich-style veal FAQ
Which cut of veal should I choose?
Choose a tender, lean cut: topside, silverside or rump. Ask your butcher to cut it into strips, or put the meat in the freezer for 20 minutes: it will be easier to slice thinly.
Can I make it ahead?
Yes, it keeps for 2 days in the fridge. Reheat it gently over very low heat, adding a little cream or stock if the sauce has thickened. Never let it boil: the meat would toughen.
Can I replace the veal?
Yes, with pork tenderloin or chicken breast, using the same method. It will no longer be true Zürcher Geschnetzeltes, but the result is delicious and cheaper.
